Trip Report: Michigan's Upper Peninsula

Words & photos by J. Picard

Nine states, 3,500 miles, eight days; From Denver, CO to Copper Harbor, MI at the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, to the endless sand beaches along Superior’s south shore to Detroit and back. This trip involved more planning and foresight than most for a couple of reasons: The perceived remoteness of the land and the supply and demand for accommodations in the region. Northern Michigan in July is a hot commodity.

The trip was planned in April 2020, delayed due to Covid and put back on the calendar for July 2021. The car was packed under the smoky Saturday morning sunrise in Denver. The wheels on our Jeep began spinning around 6:00 AM in an easterly direction. On the other end of our adventure is my home state of Michigan, though about nine hours from where I was raised in the Detroit area. Through an uneventful and repetitious Nebraska we passed, north through Dakota Sioux land, stopping just on the other side of Minneapolis, MN in Menomonie, WI where we would stay for the night at a dingy Super 8 by Wyndham.

We were welcomed by a friendly and helpful front desk agent and a packed pool of screaming kids numbering in the twenties. Just adjacent to the desk sat a group of old timers playing cards, oblivious to the ear piercing screams coming from the pool a mere twenty feet away from their table in the lobby. Our room was clean enough and for the rate of $78.00 we had nothing to complain about.

The next morning I cracked the curtain to see an array of characters in the parking lot. Some in what appeared to be Civil War attire, some in bonnets and an off contingent of sleeveless what can only be described as monster truck fans? Wisconsin is a strange place. Onward we headed in a northeastern direction through beautiful rolling hills into Michigan’s Upper Peninsula! Our short four and a half hour drive that morning brought us to Lake of the Clouds in the Porcupine Mountains. Into the park we drove up winding roads along Lake Superior’s shore arriving at a small booth where we were given instructions by a friendly woman on how to pay using our debit card on our way out of the park. Continuing on to the lot, we parked and walked a short distance up a boardwalk through tunneling deciduous forest to the lookout over the lake.

The hair on my arms stood as this moment marked the first of many incredible stops on our long anticipated trip. Looking out over the expansive forest far below, the Upper Carp River cut through the trees in a drunken, meandering dance that disappeared in the distance. The lake below sat calmly and though the parking lot was crowded, somehow we had the overlook to ourselves for a solid five minutes or so. The perspective from where we stood was one of the most beautiful and iconic images of Michigan’s Upper Peninsula and the view truly was breathtaking.

There was a slight smell of moisture in the air not dissimilar to the tropics or the west coast. The sound of distant birds and insects interjected their vocalizations at random when they saw fit. A slight haze hung in the air from distant wildfires and even so, I could breathe at the low near sea level elevation. I took in air with refreshing ease, closing my eyes to focus on each inhale and exhale, reopening them to be greeted once again by the beauty of northern Michigan.

Riding back down towards the park’s visitor center we stopped at a pull off along the largest of Michigan’s Great Lakes. Superior was uncharacteristically mellow though beautiful as always. Sand and rocks intermingled across stunning beaches playing host to families swimming in the lake’s chilly water under the hot summer sun. We paid our $9.00 day fee at the visitor center and exited the park a magnet and a couple of stickers heavier heading through Ontonagon to the hilly city of Houghton, MI. Of the places that I was excited to see, Houghton was near the top of

my list!

Through the trees the city emerged, larger than I remembered it, though it had been nearly fifteen years since I last visited. Home to Michigan Tech and boasting a history of one of the epicenters of Michigan’s copper mining operations, the history in Houghton is lengthy and well documented. It is still important to the region, though as more of a hub in the Keweenaw Peninsula and as the Upper Peninsula’s fifth largest city.

Our first stop was Keweenaw Brewing Company. We stood in the middle of the taproom looking around at all of the cool history from an old safe in the corner to the large rowing vessel mounted above us on the ceiling from Michigan Tech. Looking over the large chalkboard of beers behind the bar I decided on the November Gale Pale Ale and Carly on the Red Jacket. The drinks were consumed out on the back patio overlooking the Portage Canal Lift Bridge. The beer was delicious and the setting was perfect. I could have enjoyed several beers had we not had to keep it moving towards our final destination of Copper Harbor. On our way out the door I purchased a growler of pale ale for the road. Each beer cost $3.00 and the growler plus a fill was only $14.00. They were prices that I could get used to.

A few doors down we stopped into the Ambassador where we ordered pizzas, not knowing what the Sunday options would be further north up 41. I used the restaurant's wifi to upload a live concert photo gallery to MusicMarauders, our online music publication. The restaurant was happening, as was the rest of the town. It was a place where I could see spending quite a bit of time down the road. The pizza was fantastic, the service was great and the beers that I ordered from Blackrocks Brewing and Ore Dock Brewing in Marquette, MI respectively, were delightful.

Before we crossed the bridge we made a stop at the historic Dee Stadium. A plaque out front read “The Birthplace of Professional Hockey.” The front doors were open, but the doors leading into the stadium were locked. I was grateful to be in the presence of that sort of history rooted in a sport in which I hold in such high regard. Back on the road the Jeep cruised through Hancock on the other side of the Portage Canal.

The next stop heading north was Calumet, where a pass through the large but empty late 1800’s mining town yielded incredible beauty among an absent population. The red Jacobsville sandstone buildings created a characteristic beauty that elevated the already stunning architecture of the town. What was built for tens of thousands, was now home to 700 residents, give or take. Calumet is a town that I would like to spend more time in. I could see bellying up to a bar in the historic town after a long day of writing.

From Houghton, Calumet was a short fifteen minutes up the road and from there only another forty minutes to Copper Harbor. We were in copper country on roads leading through old mining operations showcasing Michigan’s history. We jumped off of highway 41 onto 26 through Eagle Harbor for perspective, stopped along a pull off and walked down a large wooden staircase to a picturesque beach on Lake Superior.

The sun glimmered orange off of the lake, the skies still a little hazy, though stunning. Relaxation took over as the evening’s destination was within’ reach. The drive into Copper Harbor (population 85) was incredible and the sleepy town welcomed us with little to no notable greeting. As quickly as we pulled into town, we passed through it and turned around to take it in once more. It may be sleepy at times, it may be little and somewhat remote, but I love Copper Harbor. With it being Sunday, we had no expectations and rolled the short twenty minutes south to Lac La Belle where we would be staying for the next two nights.

Pulling into the gravel lot of Mount Bohemia, we parked and grabbed a handful of items from the car. Glancing at the email from a woman at the resort, the instructions were very clear and helpful. We walked the short distance from the parking lot to Yurt 3 at the base of one of the mountain’s ski runs and punched the code into the electronic keypad. Inside, a wave of heat overtook us. We immediately put down our suitcases on a couple of bunks which filled the outer wall space of the dwelling. We headed back outside and rolled up the window coverings and clipped them open. We then placed the two fans that were in the yurt near separate windows to bring cooler air into the space. Within minutes the temperature was perfect and the space comfortable.

We wandered down the small hill to the Nordic Spa where Jerry Garcia’s voice and guitar came through the speakers! Several thirty and forty somethings enjoyed the three pools ranging from cold to warm to hot, while a little bar and concession stand in the middle cranked out margaritas and pizzas! Folks could be seen poolside using an app on their phones to order with ease. The woman serving was very kind and tolerant of my many questions about the region. We finished loading into the yurt, which was rustic, though had electricity, a flush toilet, sink and a shower; Everything we needed without any bells and whistles. It felt very much like we were attending a summer camp, which was nostalgic. Changing into our swimsuits we headed back down to the Nordic Spa with our vaccination cards in hand to get our bracelets that would grant us access to the steam room and changing area. A sign on the food stand read “Our staff is vaccinated,” which as a guest I very much appreciated.

The remainder of the evening was spent in the pool and hot tub. With a drink in hand, watching the sun set at a late hour, the evening’s glow extended to about 11:00 PM. The Nordic Spa closed around 10:00 PM at which point we took an evening drive after changing into dry clothes. A pass by Lac La Belle and some of the cabins, as well as a local park and dribble of a waterfall was all we had in us after the long day. Back at the yurts we laid the futon flat, put our sheets on the makeshift bed and laid our heads on our pillows. We couldn’t have asked for a better day in Michigan’s Keweenaw Peninsula!

The sun rose on our second day in the most northern region of the great state of Michigan. I awoke in a good mood even though coffee wouldn’t be available for another hour or so. Thoughts of lush green forests, sandy beaches, crepes and craft beer filled my head as I stepped out into the cool morning air and stretched. When 8:30 AM came we wandered down to a collection of large yurts, one with a sign out front that read “Creperie.” Inside, a very friendly young man received our order via the app, served us coffees and crepes and spoke with us at length about his experiences in the region and his love for the Keweenaw. Not only was it clear that he was good at his job, but he thoroughly enjoyed it.

Through a door into another connected yurt we found a dining space and through another door was a bar called the North Pole Bar that would likely be buzzing during the ski season. I could see falling out of that place on a snowy January night and crawling back to the yurt where my friends were all shacked up. The crepes were perfect and we took our second coffees back to our yurt where Carly prepared for the day ahead and I used the resort’s wifi to upload another photo gallery to MusicMarauders.

The first stop of our day was Copper Harbor which we passed through heading along highway 41 where it turns to dirt. About a decade and a half ago I spent a magical night at the tip of the Keweenaw at the former NASA rocket launch site, the Keweenaw Rocket Range. This was another high up stop on my list. We passed by Brickside Brewery, the northernmost brewery in Michigan, where we would return later in the day for a couple of beers. We headed down the questionable road, which was much improved from how I remembered it. We went about five miles at one point traversing a large puddle that was about a foot deep on the road.

We made a left and crawled along the final three miles for what I knew would be special. We pulled onto the site, a concrete pad and a plaque commemorating the program greeted us. We got out of the car and were immediately hit with black flies, which should have been long gone from the region, with their peak typically being a month prior in June. Quickly we got hit with more and jogged towards the beach where the wind would hopefully keep them down. The windless day was the perfect setting for an all out assault that left my hefty self sprinting back to the car and Carly screaming and laughing as she swatted and ran. It would have been comical if not for the intensity of the attack. Back in the car we closed the doors and inside there must have been hundreds of flies.

We flailed wildly swinging hats, bandanas and our hands as I quickly shifted into reverse then drive and ripped out of there. We rolled the windows down and began our counter operation to rid the car of the assailants. It was several minutes of pure chaos that left us shell shocked. We warned the few incoming cars of what lay ahead and we bailed on our plan to spend time on the site. Back in town we parked out front of Brickside Brewery which opened just five minute prior, which was a good thing as we needed something to calm our nerves.

I ordered a Some IPA and Carly ordered a Fine Day Pale, which we enjoyed outside with a couple who suffered a similar fate one bay over. The beer quickly turned my day around as I took in the happenings of Copper Harbor. We sat in a roped in patio adjacent to a closed fish taco food truck. There was a constant flow of bikers pedaling out to the end of 41 and back creating a very cool vibe in town as we sipped our beverages. From Brickside we headed up Brockway Mountain Drive to the first lookout which provided expansive views of Copper Harbor and the surrounding geography. While at the lookout we spoke with an older couple, the woman originally from the UP playfully referred to us as “trolls,” (people who live below the Mackinac Bridge) and the gentleman shared stories with us about transporting cars in the region during whiteout snow storms where he had to use the rumble strips to confirm that he was still on the road.

We headed back down the Brockway Mountain Pass and made a left onto 26 where we stopped at Devil’s Washtub. The 100 foot hike from the road ended at the rocky cave-like feature where a family was cliff diving into the cold water of Superior, swimming under the rock formation into the washtub and climbing out. The whole scene seemed pretty crazy as water sloshed in and out of the formation. Continuing along 26 we stopped at the newly established Fresh Coast Cabins, where building crews were working on the lodge. We let them know that we were going to check the place out and we roamed around the property. There were nine cabins in total all that featured well thought out privacy spaces, fire pits and fantastic accommodations. I could see spending time around their fire pit overlooking Lake Superior. We looked forward to returning and experiencing all that Fresh Coast Cabins has to offer.

A couple of miles outside of town we pulled onto the property of Keweenaw Mountain Lodge. On our right was a stunning golf course and a short distance further were beautiful classic cabins lining the road. We parked out front of the lodge, a massive building perfectly set into the surrounding beauty. We wandered in and were greeted by a kind host who told us that we were welcome to look around and where we could find the cafe. We purchased some snacks and wandered through the building from the reception room to the common spaces and bar areas, stopping to appreciate their grand stone fireplace. Outside we walked around the lodge and stopped into the clubhouse where again the staff was very friendly!

We continued down 41 and turned on Lac La Belle Road back to Mount Bohemia. We changed into our swimsuits and returned to the Nordic Spa where we ordered strawberry margaritas and pizzas, which were great, from the same gentleman who served us crepes that morning. We told him about our black fly experience and he laughed saying that there were very few black flies in June and that strangely they were a month late. Carly enjoyed the 120 degree steam room as I spoke to the woman from the previous night inquiring about a good sand beach for Carly to stand up paddle board at. She recommended Bete A Grise and so we wrapped it up at the Nordic Spa and headed that way.

Just a few miles up the road Carly filled up her inflatable paddle board and headed out onto the calm bay. We had the whole end of the beach to ourselves as families and groups of kids swam and played in the water a couple hundred yards down. I wandered the beach rockhounding, keeping an eye on Carly as she went out into the bay. At one point I heard her yell and I looked up to see the paddle board floating on the water, but no Carly. I laughed and thought about how cold that water was. She came to the surface laughing and gasping from the cold water, realizing that the water was so shallow that she could stand. She made her way back in and tooled along the beach for a while as the sun set lower in the sky.

She deflated her board, packed it easily back into the car and we stopped at a quaint general store for ice and a sixer of Upper Hand Up Next Hazy IPA before returning to our yurt to change and head into Copper Harbor for dinner. There was one option in town and that was The Mariner North, which had a line out the door. Not only was it the only option on a Monday, but the Isle Royale ferry had just returned and dropped off folks from the least visited and one of the most remote of all of the National Parks. We waited patiently in line, which moved surprisingly quickly and we were seated in no time. I ordered a Keweenaw Brewing Pale in a can, as well as a steak. Carly ordered the salmon. The service was prompt, the food delicious and the prices very reasonable.

After dinner we walked out on a dock on the harbor and sat on a bench watching the sun still lowering in the sky. It was a beautiful night in the north and the calm of the water and quiet of the town reverberated a balance inside of us. Our evening ended as it did the night prior at Mount Bohemia, in our quiet little yurt under the still bright late night skies of Michigan’s Keweenaw Peninsula.

The morning came with very little rest. Moderate winds had rolled in the previous evening and the flapping of the window covers on the yurts made for limited restful sleep. We rolled into Copper Harbor to find the restaurants closed, contradictory to Google and returned to Mount Bohemia for more crepes and coffee. I uploaded an additional concert photo gallery to MusicMarauders and enjoyed my coffee and breakfast in the unique circular setting of our yurt. The morning was cool and overcast which contrasted what we had experienced thus far and I rather enjoyed it.

We pulled the car up to the yurt, casually loaded it up and concluded our time at Mount Bohemia. We loved the property, the experience, the staff and the food and would recommend it to anyone looking for a non-pretentious ski mountain experience with friends and family! The wheels on our Jeep spun back south toward Calumet, stopping just shy at Prospector's Paradise, a large family run rock shop, where we purchased some Michigan copper, Leland blue and garnet. The family was great and provided us with information about the minerals, history of the region and they gave us very reasonable prices on our purchases! It’s a must for anyone passing through the area!

A short distance further and we found ourselves at the Calumet Colosseum, the second claim to “the birthplace of professional hockey.” We stopped for a photo, but the child in me couldn’t resist trying the doors to see if they were open. They were indeed and I wandered into the foyer, where the walls were adorned with plaques and nameplates from the arena's history. I walked up a few more steps and tried the doors into the main area, they too were open. I stood in the lobby of the historic building and shouted “hello” into the sparsely lit space, when a man came around the corner. He introduced himself as Mark Peters, operations manager at the historic colosseum.

I asked if I could look around a little and he graciously accepted. The history was thick, the walls covered in old jerseys, sticks, trophies and photos of players from the early 1900’s. At first glance the arena appeared more modern than I had expected. I wandered to Mark’s office which doubled as a ticket booth and asked if the Gibson Cup was in house. The Gibson Cup (1939), also referred to as “the Stanley Cup of the North,” is the third oldest cup in the United States. He pointed just next to where I was standing and said, “That’s the base of the cup there,” and alluded to the cup itself being elsewhere at the moment. I inquired about the cup sitting just over his shoulder and he pulled it down from the shelf for a closer look. It was the Kraft Cup, awarded to the town selected for Kraft Hockeyville and in 2019 Calumet had been that town. The Detroit Red Wings faced the St. Louis Blues in an official NHL exhibition game at the Colosseum, the signage is still present when entering and throughout the arena.

We thanked Mark, not wanting to bother him anymore and as we went to exit the stadium, I was drawn to a dark room full of trophies and showcases. We used our cell phone flashlights to view the old cups, the particles of dust hanging in the air among our beams of light. Behind us we heard Mark in the distance mention something about turning on the lights so we could see and when he did I noticed that he was holding two mini sticks in his hand. He handed them to Carly and I unceremoniously and I quickly realized that the sticks commemorated the 2019 Kraft Hockeyville game. It was at that point where I think Mark realized that I was a true hockey fan and not someone just passing through for a pit stop.

Mark told us about how he found one of the large trophies crammed under the bleachers with a bunch of other stuff. He showed us the oldest hockey stick in possession, from 1904 - 1905. He took us into the colosseum and into the mechanical room that contained millions of dollars in new machinery provided by the NHL to cool and improve the ice quality. He showed us the new scoreboard, boards and the original bleachers with the floor upgrades that he had to make. As we were winding up our tour I asked if there was anything else that I should see. He smiled and pointed to a contraption at the far end of the arena. It was one of the oldest Zambonis in the world; One of five known to exist. It was more of a push cart that required two guys to get the job done. I stood before it in awe and appreciation.

Back in the lobby Mark told us about growing up in the region, serving in the military and being stationed in Colorado Springs, CO and returning to Calumet to work part time at the Colosseum, which evolved into his full time career. He laughed while telling us about the winters and invited us back to experience the snow and a couple of games. It was an offer that I really hoped would come to fruition. Out front I had to collect myself, as I was on cloud 9 from the experience. I immediately called my father to share with him the special experience.

From Calumet we passed the Quincy Mine, back through Hancock and Houghton, which were even busier in contrast to the previous Sunday evening. We drove by the large Portage Lake, then by the even larger Keweenaw Bay through Baraga and L’Anse, then inland and east to Jasper Ridge Brewery in Ishpeming. Fifteen years ago, I had spent several days bellied up at that bar, but that is a story for another time. I ordered a Blueberry Wheat for old times sake and a Grimy Ranarr IPA to accompany my French dip, and Carly ordered the Cherry Blonde to go with her chicken tenders and fries. The beer was great, the food was solid and the service friendly.

From Ishpeming to Marquette the car rolled through the Upper Peninsula’s largest town (population 21,000), the streets were bustling with tourists and families. The shops were open and the sizable downtown area was alive! After a short detour to the town’s centerpiece, the Ore Dock on the bay, we continued east toward the evening’s final destination. We were looking forward to meeting up with my folks who would join us for the remaining couple of days of our trip. Along Superior we cruised through Au Train and into Christmas, MI. We were indeed in Christmas in July. The next two nights of accommodations would be a wildcard as the reviews were decent, but the prices higher than one would opt to spend for this sort of stay.

We pulled into the White Pine Lodge and parked. As we did a woman looked over at us and made a dash for the door, not even extending the courtesy of holding the door for us. We wandered in slowly behind her just in time to hear the agent at the front desk tell the potential guest that the hotel was booked through the next couple of weeks and that no rooms were available. That was the case nearly a month prior when I was working on booking accommodations in the UP. After extensive searching, we were lucky to get the bookings and rates we did. The desk agent shifted gears to us, our reservation was pulled up and we were checked in. We loaded into the room which was clean, but without any sort of art or imagery on the walls. The accommodations were simple, but perfect. As we showered and got ready to meet up with my folks, a text came through from my dad who said they were at a bar in town. Carly made a comment along the lines of “watch it be across the street” and sure enough it was!

I wandered over to Foggy’s while Carly finished getting ready. I hugged my parents and joined them at the bar where I proceeded to tell them about our trip up to that point. The restaurant was crowded and more patrons waited in line for a table. I ordered a Keweenaw Brewing Widowmaker and Carly joined us a short time later and ordered a Bell’s Two Hearted. We split a spinach artichoke dip and a Caesar salad. The food was fine, the service was decent given the demand and we left full and satisfied.

Back over at the hotel we showed my folks the digs. There was a large hot tub, an area for the continental breakfast and the lobby connected to a Sunoco gas station which had everything from local craft Michigan beer to shirts, souvenirs and even local delicacies like jam and jerky. It was a long day and we were all tired, so we made plans for what would be a wonderful following day on Lake Superior’s southern shore. My folks cruised the 45 minutes back to their trailer at a campground and livery outside of Germfask in the Seney National Wildlife Refuge and we hit the hot tub before jumping into bed which was extremely comfortable. A smile hit my face in anticipation of the beaches, waterfalls and local flavors to come...

The sun shone through a small crack in the curtains. Coffee was in order, so I headed down to the lobby and filled up three cups: one for Carly and two for me. I uploaded more photos to MusicMarauders, checking that off of my list for the day. I responded to a few emails and closed the laptop. We touched base with my folks and a plan was made to meet at the Dogpatch Restaurant in Munising, a short ten minutes away for us and about thirty five for them.

We took a seat at a table near the entrance and the waitress came by to inform us that it was buffet only, something that I hadn’t heard since before the pandemic. I sat in silent reflection and accepted the option, coming out of my daze when my phone illuminated and a text came through from Oteil Burbridge of Dead & Company and Allman Brothers Band. I smiled and thought about throwing music on the beach or in the forest in the epic region we were immersed in.

We dined on an average breakfast and continued in one car on to Munising Falls, just a mile or two outside of the downtown area. Up the short trail from the parking lot, the falls had a decent trickle. The trail was moderately busy at the morning hour, as a ranger set up a sandwich board sign with some helpful tips. Back on the road we continued up H-58 making a left onto a dirt county road to Miners Falls. The approximately half mile trail through pristine green deciduous forest ended at an upper overlook with somewhat obstructed views and a lower overlook down a short set of stairs for full views of the raging falls.

The trail began to crowd as we headed back to the parking lot and continued on to Miners Castle on Michigan’s Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The viewing deck was somewhat crowded overlooking one of Michigan’s most iconic images. The water was various shades of blue and the sun’s reflection glimmered on the waves. The green of the shoreline trees added even further beauty to the already colorful landscape! We wandered one thousand feet across the ridge to the lower overlook which featured great views of the rock formation in front of us and incredible views of Miners Beach off to our right, which was our next stop.

Down at Miners Beach we parked and walked a short distance through a pine forest with cleared brush. It almost looked like Lake Tahoe, as the water and beach peaked through in the distance. My mother headed to the left down to where Miners River emptied into Lake Superior. Carly, my father and I headed off to the right to the far end of the beach to check out another of Michigan’s iconic scenes, Elliot Falls. We dodged tiny frogs who hipped and hopped into crashing waves. We passed a large group of kayakers setting out on their adventure, eventually landing at what appeared to be Elliot Falls, but without any falls. I noticed two rangers enjoying their lunches on a log and I asked about the falls. “See that black mark on the rocks over there? That’s Elliot Falls,” one of the rangers said with a smile as she lowered her sandwich.

We wandered over and hiked around on the rocks for a bit. I imagined the rushing water of the tiny shoreline falls in the full melt of the spring. For our long hike back we opted for the ridge trail up a short set of wooden stairs and through the trees. We sauntered along parallel to Lake Superior and returned to where my mom was set up. We rockhounded for a bit and checked out the river whose cold water rushed shallowly out to the lake. The beach was perfect, the water was relatively calm, the sun shined down bright and warm and if not for the other items on our list, we could have spent the rest of the day at Miners Beach enjoying some beverages.

Back in Munising we ate at Eh Burger, a small fast food shop near the harbor. Carly and I ordered cheese burgers and I added a poutine for good measure. Shortly after we received our food a boat returned to the harbor letting off a large group of tourists causing the line to wind out the door. The food was decent for a fast food joint. Across the street we checked out Falling Rock Café & Bookstore, which also had a line out the door for coffee, food and ice cream. Inside the space was split into two sides. On the far side was a room with its exterior walls lined with bookshelves and books. In the middle section sat tables of folks dining and enjoying their coffee. In the back of the space was a small area dedicated to art, handmade crafts and souvenirs.

Back on the café side I purchased a couple of bags of coffee, one called Munising Morning and the other a Lake Superior blend. The town was buzzing with tourists! RVs wound in and out of roundabouts, people iced down coolers in the gas station parking lots and towed boats along for a day on the water. We hopped in separate cars and back onto H-58 towards 12 Mile Beach, about forty five minutes east of Munising through the heart of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. At 12 Mile Beach we parked in a small lot, inflated Carly’s stand up paddle board, loaded the soft cooler with local beers and headed down to the beach.

It was a rockhounder’s paradise with all sorts of agate and fossils all just an arms length away. Carly took on the moderate waves and ventured out onto the water for a bit before returning to the beach excited at just having spent even a short time out on Superior. The beach was just about empty and even if it were more crowded, the space itself was so large that there would be enough room for everyone to feel like they were on their own private beach.

A little further up we stopped at the Log Slide, its chute used to carry large trees 300 feet down to the lakeshore. Now, the only thing going up and down are those who take on the task. One step forward, two steps back. The trail from the parking lot was an easy quarter mile and resulted in expansive views of Pictured Rocks and the dunes. As we took in the perspective a man crawling up on all fours with a large pack explained that two hikers who had hiked miles from around the bend with heavy packs were told they could climb up the log slide. Unfortunately, they were exhausted so the man carried one of their packs to the top. His girlfriend was below trying to assist the hikers as another young couple headed down to help. On our way back to the parking lot we ran into a Department of Natural Resources officer who caught wind of the women and came to assist.

Twenty five more minutes up the road our convoy rolled into the sleepy beach town of Grand Marais. The sand covered streets were empty and the skies resembled cotton candy. We parked and decided on The Dunes Saloon/Lake Superior Brewing Co for our evening’s meal. I enjoyed their Pale Ale and Carly their Blueberry Blonde. The pizza was good, the garlic parmesan popcorn was interesting and the service was attentive. The waitress took time to tell us her story. She was from Indiana and was camping and working in Grand Marais for the summer. She told us about how desolate and slow the town was during the winter, but that there was no better place to be. After dinner, my folks rolled the thirty minutes south to Seney and we headed the hour and fifteen minutes to Christmas where we crawled into bed for one last night in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.

The final morning of our trip was overcast and cool. We checked out of the White Pine Lodge, gassed up and headed east to Northland Outfitters Campground where my folks were staying for their four days in the UP. We toured the site which was beautiful and it featured the Manistique River passing through. We headed into the general store which was well stocked with goods, souvenirs and merchandise. The owner was kind and said that business was really good. He’s owned the property for eleven years and is open from May 1 to the first Sunday in October every year and we’d recommend it if you’re looking for a quiet little spot in Seney.

For breakfast we stopped into Jolly Inn where the servers seemed to wish we hadn’t. The service was dismal, the food was below average and the prices were not great. If you’re passing through Germfask and Seney, you can keep the wheels spinning on this joint. From there we said a brief goodbye to my folks who would be meeting us back at their house in the Detroit area. The hour and fifteen minute drive from Germfask to St. Ignace took us through Naubinway, through Epoufette across the Cutwater Bridge into Brevort resulting in an essential stop at the family owned and operated Lehto’s Pasties (since 1947) for a couple of the UP’s most notable foods. The Pasty is a meat and veggie pie popularized by 1800’s Cornish miners and I never pass by Lehto’s without stopping. We ordered two, added a couple of sides of gravy, two Cokes and a magnet and we were on our way towards the Mackinac Bridge to cross back into the Lower Peninsula. We paid the $4.00 toll and crossed between Lake Michigan to the west and Lake Huron to the east.

On the bridge I always make it a point to avoid the grates, whose updrafts make me uneasy. Unfortunately, construction on the bridge brought us down to one lane of traffic at a stand still on the grate. I was not happy. I started to sweat and my body felt light. Eventually we moved along and off of the bridge. We passed by the Cheboygan exit, through Gaylord and Grayling, south through Roscommon, West Branch, Standish, Pinconning, past Bay City, Saginaw, Flint and eventually into the suburbs of Detroit. The day’s drive for us was just shy of six hours and gave us an extensive perspective of the natural beauty and splendor of Michigan.

The next couple of days were spent in southeast Michigan with family. We reflected on our experiences and how they played into the bigger picture of our lives. On our final night of the trip we dined at Detroit Fleat, which is owned by my sister-in-law, Katie and my brother, Brandon. The vibe on the patio was colorful and perfect. My pineapple margarita hit the spot and Carly’s berry Slooshie with a rum floater was excellent! The warm pretzels with beer cheese and loaded buffalo chicken fries were delicious! Carly really enjoyed the jerked chicken tacos and the garlic romano brussels sprouts were also worth mentioning!

We departed from my parents’ house under the early morning street lights of their small suburban town and headed back west towards Denver. We traversed Michigan’s rolling southern hills past Battle Creek and Kalamazoo all of the way to Lake Michigan and headed down into Indiana to Illinois. We passed south of Chicago, through Davenport, IA and Iowa City south of Cedar Rapids through Des Moines to Omaha, NE. We talked about our future and as we did an email came through regarding possible employment in the Keweenaw Peninsula. I smiled and reflected as we continued through Lincoln, Grand Island, North Platte and then southwest into Colorado. We returned home around midnight and unpacked the car. It felt good to be home for the time being, but our next adventure was just a short few weeks away...